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When curating a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might expect familiar award-winning venues. Yet, situated near the top among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung part of north London.

An Shocking Recognition

This small Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. The recognition has made the proprietors totally shocked.

“I am utterly surprised,” says the family member, referring to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their small restaurant securing such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its original character. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the food, and this restaurant certainly excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent texture.

It is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. As the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I am really happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo outside its own premises. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this gastronomic honour.